Travel Guides to Canada

and world-class golf ), Saint John and Sydney (gateways to the Bay of Fundy and Cabot Trail, respectively) are other top calls. Specialty sojourns that focus exclusively on this area—like One Ocean Expeditions' "Fiddles and Sticks" trip—are increasingly available; however, most cruises begin or end in New York or Boston, meaning you can see key ports in as little as four nights. Extended itineraries are offered, too. So boats may veer across open seas to Newfoundland, where ports like St. John's (a centuries-old city that also features on transatlantic trips) and Corner Brook (the launch pad for Gros Morne National Park) extend a warm welcome; or they may head through the Gulf of St. Lawrence and follow the eponymous river. INLAND ADVENTURES This second alternative is rapidly growing in popularity, and rightly so because the fabled St. Lawrence has much to recommend it. Woods, whales, ords and photogenic headlands make it an eastern answer to B.C.'s Inside Passage—one infused with Québécois charm. Consequently, pocket-sized ports that showcase its natural beauty are emerging as destinations in their own right, while two marquee stops routinely win rave reviews. Québec City, after all, is famous for its UNESCO-designated fortifications and beautiful heritage buildings; while Montréal (one of the world's largest French-speaking cities) has a storied past that is accented with cosmopolitan élan. The vessels that visit these ports, moreover, cover an impres- sively broad spectrum in terms of size and style. Luxury lovers, for example, can live large on Cunard's renowned Queen Mary 2, or opt for intimacy on Victory Cruise Line's boutiquey M/V Victory I and II. The mere arrival of the latter—a pair of 202-passenger sister ships which began plying the St. Lawrence River and Great Lake routes in 2016 and 2018, respectively—further illustrates the way that new entries on the Canadian cruise scene are maximizing the potential of the inland waterways. NORTHERN DELIGHTS The once-frozen Arctic is heating up as well, and in summer, when seas are navigable, there are ever-increasing possibilities for bucket listers and nature buffs who feel its magnetic pull. Quark Expeditions and Adventure Canada, for instance, both put new vessels into service on the Arctic Route in the past few years; tellingly, the first of these also refurbished one of its polar expedition ships in 2017 (the Ocean Adventurer, formerly Sea Adventurer) in order to provide intrepid passengers with a greater degree of comfort. Admittedly, such voyages aren't for everyone. Specific destinations can be hard to pinpoint due to the vagaries of tides or weather; and landing places, sometimes accessible only via Zodiac, aren't necessari- ly ports per se since the population might consist solely of walruses. The upside is that the "Great White North" has great white wildlife (think polar bears, beluga whales and snowy owls), unspoiled scenery, plus a rich Inuit culture; and the vessels that sail here can get cruisers up close to it all. As an added bonus, the majority have resident experts well-versed in subjects like natural history and Native customs who will share their knowledge through formal lectures and guided excursions. With choices like that available, there's never been a better time to come aboard in Canada! WHAT'S NEW? Windstar Cruises' Star Pride—a yacht-style, all-suites ship—comes to Eastern Canada this summer (www.windstarcruises.com). Victory Cruise Line's new M/V Victory II makes her inaugural voyage in May, sailing from Boston to Halifax (www.victory cruiselines.com). Following a $78-million make-over, Montréal welcomed cruisers to its re- imagined Alexandra Pier facility in 2017 ( www.cruisesalamontreal.com). Family-owned Croisières M/S Jacques- Cartier puts its newly-overhauled vessel into service on the St. Lawrence (www. msjacquescartier.com). Attention Mouseketeers! Disney Magic adds Québec City, Saguenay and Baie-Comeau to its port-of-call list with September itineraries ( disneycruise.disney.go.com). The 50-cabin National Geographic Quest, which will ply the Inside Passage, was launched by Lindblad Expeditions last year ( www.expeditions.com). New trips from Ponant include an art- themed one between Vancouver and San Diego offered in conjunction with Christie's auction house (us .ponant.com). 31 31

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