from Dawson City, Yukon, to Inuvik,
N.W.T. It features two mountain ranges,
tundra carpeting the ground, wildlife
and jaw-dropping scenery. Cross the
Continental Divide three times, take your
picture on the Arctic Circle and climb
aboard a ferry at the Mackenzie River
(www.travelyukon.com/press-releases/
scenic-drives/dempster-highway).
Winter road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk:
This 115-mile (185-km) road is open late
December to late April and links the iso-
lated community of Tuktoyaktuk to the
road system. With talk of building an all-
weather road, this could soon be your last
chance to drive an ice road on the Arctic
coast or try it with a local operator (
www.
upnorthtours.ca; www.arcticchalet.com).
Deh Cho Travel Connection: From dinosaur
trackways to stunning waterfalls, this 1,120-
mile (1,800-km) loop travels through
northern Alberta, southern N.W.T. and
northern British Columbia as it links the
Mackenzie, Liard and Alaska highways. In
the N.W.T., enjoy Alexandra and Louise
falls near Hay River, bears and bison on
the edges of the highway, a slice of history
in Fort Simpson and traditional Dene
birchbark baskets in Fort Liard. Take a
flightseeing tour into Nahanni National
Park Reserve or hike into Wood Buffalo
National Park. Enjoy modern amenities
in Yellowknife (www.dehchotravel.ca).
Information on road conditions is available
online (www.dot.gov.nt.ca/_live/pages/
wpPages/roadconditions.aspx).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Keep an eye out for bison in Wood Buffalo
National Park and the Mackenzie Bison
Sanctuary. Wolves, all types of bears,
moose, caribou and muskox also call the
N.W.T. home. Each spring, more than 200
bird species nest here. Paddle the Thelon
River with wildlife biologist Alex Hall,
with abundant opportunities to observe
wildlife (www.canoearctic.com).
Take a cultural tour to the village of
Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic coast, including
a walk-in community freezer. Visit with
an Inuvialuit family to learn how their
traditions and modern life come together.
Taste local delicacies such as dried
fish, caribou, and muktuk (www.up
northtours.ca).
You can't travel the private ice road that
appears on reality television series Ice
Road Truckers but there are plenty of
others you can drive. They include Inuvik
to Tuktoyaktuk, Yellowknife to Dettah,
Yellowknife to Behchoko, Wrigley to
Norman Wells and a road that travels from
Fort McMurray through Wood Buffalo
National Park to Fort Smith (www.dot.
gov.nt.ca/_live/pages/wpPages/winter
_and_ice_roads.aspx).
Buy unique locally made clothing and
crafts at shops in many communities.
Qiviut, a wool made from muskox, is
most often used for hats and scarves.
Traditionally tanned hides are frequently
used to make moccasins, gloves and jac-
kets decorated with beautiful beadwork.
Birchbark baskets are often adorned with
designs using colourfully dyed porcupine
quills. Moosehair is dyed and made
into meticulous designs called moosehair
tuftings (www.iti.gov.nt.ca/artscrafts/
information.shtml).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Check out Dene, Inuvialuit and Métis
crafts at visitor centres, museums and
shops. Learn how to make birchbark bas-
kets, moosehair tuftings and quillwork at
the renowned Great Northern Arts
Festival in Inuvik (www.gnaf.org) or at
Fort Simpson's Open Sky Festival (www.
openskyfestival.ca). Appreciate stun-
ning murals that missionaries created in
Fort Good Hope's church. Learn about
the Canol Trail and pipeline's construc-
tion during a visit to the Norman
Wells Historical Centre (www.norman
wellsmuseum.com/visitor-centre).
The Northern Life Museum and Cultural
Centre shares the story of the Fort Smith
region as a gateway into the North
(www.fortsmith.ca/cms/attractions/
northern-life-museum-and-cultural-
centre).
CITY LIGHTS
Yellowknife has a population of nearly
20,000 people. It combines Old Town's
historic buildings with downtown's mod-
ern amenities (www.northernfrontier.
com). Take a walking tour. Climb the
Bush Pilots' Monument for a 360-degree
view of Yellowknife Bay, walk amid his-
toric log cabins, see the most northerly
houseboat community in North America
and stop by the Wildcat Café. Visit the
Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre
to learn about northern aviation and see
the type of moosehide boat that was
www.spectacularnwt.com/
whattodo/events
Special Events
2012
MARCH
Snowking Winter Festival
Yellowknife
MAY 31 - JUNE 3
NorthWords Writers Festival
Yellowknife
JUNE 21
National Aboriginal Day
Territory-wide
JUNE 29 - JULY 1
Open Sky Festival, Fort Simpson
JULY 14-17
Folk on the Rocks Music Festival
Yellowknife
JULY 15-24
Great Northern Arts Festival, Inuvik
JULY 17
Parks Day Celebration:
Pine Lake Picnic, Fort Smith
MID-JULY
Billy Joss Open Celebrity Golf
Tournament, Ulukhaktok
AUGUST 3-6
Slave River PaddleFest, Fort Smith
ICE FISHING • CTC/TANIA SPENCER/GNWT
176 2012 TRAVEL GUIDE TO CANADA
Northwest territories