Travel Guides to Canada

2016 Travel Guide to Canada

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TRAVEL GUIDE TO CANADA to November. The Atlantic scenery does not disappoint—especially in autumn, when vast forests blaze with brilliant foliage, and the ports are equally distinctive. Leading the list in terms of passenger traffic is Halifax (coincidentally, the birthplace of cruise pioneer Samuel Cunard). Notable for its deep harbour and charming waterfront attractions, the Nova Scotian capital received more than 222,000 cruisers last year. Charlottetown (home to Anne of Green Gables and world-class golf), Saint John and Sydney (gateways to the Bay of Fundy and Cabot Trail, respectively) are other possible calls. Since most cruises begin in New York or Boston, you can see such ports in as little as four nights. Extended itineraries, though, are available too. So boats may veer north across open seas to Newfoundland, where ports like St. John's (a centuries-old city that also features on transatlantic trips) and Corner Brook (the launch pad for Gros Morne National Park) extend a warm welcome; or west through the Gulf of St. Lawrence, then down the eponymous river. THE INTERIOR This second option is rapidly growing in popularity, and rightly so because the fabled St. Lawrence has much to recommend it. Woods, whales, fjords and photogenic headlands make it an eastern alternative to B.C.'s Inside Passage—one infused with Québécois charm. As a result, pocket-sized ports that showcase its natural beauty are emerging as destinations in their own right, while a pair of marquee stops routinely win rave reviews. Québec City, after all, is famous for its UNESCO-designated fortifications and beautiful heritage buildings; while Montréal (one of the world's largest French-speaking cities) has a storied past accented with cosmopolitan élan. The vessels that visit these ports, moreover, cover an impressively broad spectrum. Luxury lovers, for exam- ple, can live large on Cunard's Queen Mary 2 or opt for intimacy aboard the Pearl Mist (which debuted in 2014) and the MS Saint Laurent (which began plying these waters in 2015). Both carry just 210 passengers, and their launch illustrates the way that new entries on the cruise scene are maximizing the potential of these inland waterways. THE ARCTIC The once-frozen Arctic is heating up as well, and in summer, when seas are navigable, there are ever-increasing options for bucket listers and nature buffs who feel its magnetic pull. Quark Expeditions and Adventure Canada, for instance, put new vessels into service on the Arctic Route over the past two years (the Sea Explorer in 2014, the Ocean Endeavour in 2015). New lines, similarly, are coming in to showcase the area's austere beauty, including Crystal Cruises, which will lend luxury to the Northwest Passage in 2016. Admittedly, such voyages aren't for everyone. Specific destinations can be hard to pinpoint due to the vagaries of tides or weather; and landing places, sometimes accessible only via Zodiac, aren't necessarily ports per se since the population might consist solely of walruses. The upside is that the "Great White North" has great white wildlife (think polar bears, beluga whales and snowy owls), a seemingly limitless supply of unspoiled scenery, plus a rich Inuit culture; and the vessels that sail here can get cruisers up close to it all. As an added bonus, the majority have resident experts well-versed in subjects like natural history and Native customs who will share their knowledge through formal lectures and guided excursions. With choices like that available, there's never been a better time to come aboard in Canada! WHAT'S NEW? Last May, Vancouver's sail-topped Canada Place Cruise Terminal become the first in the world to install Automated Passport Control (APC) kiosks for U.S. bound pas- sengers (www.portmetrovancouver.com). After a decade-long absence, Adventure Canada returned to Québec waters in 2015, taking in such sites as the Saguenay Fjord, Gaspé Peninsula and Îles-de-la-Madeleine (www.adventurecanada.com). Thanks to a $5-million redevelopment project, Charlottetown's cruise port now has an updated terminal, a pretty pedestrian plaza, and improved shore transportation access (www.portcharlottetown.com). This August, Crystal Serenity will become the first large, luxury liner to traverse the Northwest Passage. The 32-day voyage begins in Anchorage and ends in New York City ( www.crystalcruises.com).

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