recounting the heady days when whalers from
France and Spain busily manufactured
much-coveted oil from blubber here
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/redbay).
That seems like only yesterday compared
to Newfoundland's millennium-old sister
site, L'Anse aux Meadows. Leif Eriksson and
his Viking crew arrived on the spot in 1000
AD, then proceeded to build shelters out of
the earth and craft iron from the bog-ore it
yielded. Their settlement was so shrouded in
time that its very existence was dismissed as
a myth until 1960, when Helge Ingstad and
his archaeologist wife, Anne, uncovered
what was left of it. Today it features
atmospheric sod huts, faux Vikings, and
an artefact-filled visitor's centre
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/meadows).
ETCHED BY THE ELEMENTS
While exploring the province's coastal
waters in summer, you might observe
whales like the ones that lured the Basque
fisherman all those centuries ago, or see
supersized icebergs that predate the Vikings.
The land itself, moreover, is positively
primeval. Just witness another World
Heritage site, popular Gros Morne National
Park, where you can float on a freshwater
fjord sculpted by retreating glaciers during
the last ice age and admire geological
anomalies formed hundreds of millions of
years ago when tectonic upheavals thrust the
earth's crust upward (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
grosmorne).
Tellingly, the extraordinary animal fossils
discovered at the province's most recently
inscribed UNESCO site, the 5.7-sq.-km
(2.2-sq.-mi.) Mistaken Point Ecological
Reserve, date back further still. With a
discerning eye and a knowledgeable guide,
you can spot 20 different species embedded
right on the surface of the wave-washed rocks.
Representing the oldest complex multi-
cellular life forms ever found, they are more
than half a billion years old (www.gov.nl.ca/
ecc/natural-areas/wer/r-mpe).
Such ancient attractions—together with
others that are officially protected, privately
operated or provided by Mother Nature—are
tangible reminders of Newfoundland &
Labrador's timeless appeal.
WHAT'S NEW?
Marine Atlantic has leased a new passenger
ferry to operate routes between Nova Scotia
and Newfoundland beginning in 2024. It
will be powered in part by liquid natural gas,
as well as diesel fuel, and lithium batteries
will help cut down on carbon emissions for
green efficiency.
Iceberg seekers have a new adventure option
with the local family-owned Whaler's Quest
Ocean Adventures in Red Bay, Labrador. The
iceberg touring company opened last season
(www.whalersquest.ca).
A number of enchancements have been
announced for popular destinations and
infrastructure in Gros Morne National Park.
Improvements will be made on the highway
leading to L'Anse aux Meadows and the road
from Woody Point to Trout River, and Western
Brook Bridge is being replaced along Hwy.
430. As well, upgrades are being made to the
Tablelands and L'Anse aux Meadows parking
lots to improve visitor experience and safety
(www.parksacanada.gc.ca/grosmorne).
Combining stories, music and food, the new
Bites of Basque History program lets visitors
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