Travel Guides to Canada

2023-24 Travel Guide to Canada

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THE HALIFAX HARBOURWALK The Halifax Harbourwalk is an accessible wooden boardwalk packed with patios, beer gardens, museums and year-round festivals. There is a permanent celebratory atmos- phere here, whether you're exploring on foot, by bike (www.iheartbikeshfx.com), by e-scooter (www.hfxescooters.com), or simply relaxing in one of the Adirondack chairs or hammocks placed thoughtfully along the route. A natural place to begin your stroll is the same location where nearly a million immigrants began the North American chapter of their lives, at the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 (www.pier21.ca). Consult the knowledge- able staff who will trace your family's roots globally, using ships' records and other genealogical data. Further along, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic describes Halifax's involvement in the recovery of the ill-fated Titanic. Head upstairs to appreciate the beauty of the Days of Sail gallery (maritimemuseum.nova scotia.ca). Nearby, the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia holds over 18,000 works of art including the life-sized Maud Lewis Painted House, an original "tiny home" of which every imagin- able surface was painted by the famous folk artist (www.artgalleryofnovascotia.ca). If you haven't been to Halifax lately, you'll be totally wowed by the new Queen's Marque district—a grand residential, shopping, and restaurant development, located near the ferry terminal. One of the most stunning aspects of this district is the magnificent architectural feature, Rise Again: a pair of wide stone staircases, one leading to the water, and the other reaching to the sky. HALIFAX FROM THE WATER A maritime city is always best enjoyed from the water, and Halifax is no exception. Feel the salt air on your cheeks from the decks of the graceful Tall Ship Silva or the Mississippi- style Harbour Queen (www.ambassa tours.com). Halifax Harbour Tours offers a peaceful, 60-minute guided tour on the Violet Mac—a 1930s-style hand-restored all- electric harbour launch (www.halifax harbourtours.ca). Adventurous types can glide through the harbour on a Sunset Kayak Tour (www.theharbourwatercraft.com), while thrill-seekers can rent a lightning- speed Sea-doo (www.seahfx.com). A new experience from Parks Canada combines a ticket aboard the Harbour Queen with a tour of the fort and tunnels at Georges Island (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/georges). Pack your own lunch, or pre-order a Parks Canada Perfect Picnic. Despite dozens of specialty tours, "take the ferry!" is the first piece of travel advice that Haligonians will extend to any visitor. The Halifax-Dartmouth Ferry is the oldest saltwater ferry service in North America, and part of the daily grind for commuters, but for the tourist, a 15-minute journey on the open-air deck provides a delightful introduction to the harbour. CITADEL HILL AND THE NORTH END Physically, Halifax is shaped by a glacial deposit called a drumlin—an enormous geological mound that gazes protectively toward the water. Atop this hill, the star- shaped Halifax Citadel National Historic Site is an essential stop (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/ halifaxcitadel). The brand new exhibit, Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped by Conflict is a must-see for history buffs and military enthu- siasts since it describes how the Mi'kmaq, Acadian, and British cultures merged—and collided—to create the Halifax of today. Other Citadel attractions include immersive experiences such as musket or cannon- firing, ghost walks, and even rum-tasting! At the end of a busy day, there is no better place to rest your sea legs than one of Halifax's cosy pubs such as The Old Triangle, Durty Nelly's or The Split Crow. Order the fish and chips and a local beer ... and wait for the night to begin. NS 82 BY HELEN EARLEY Halifax by Land and Sea WALKING THE HALIFAX WATERFRONT (LEFT) AND DOWNTOWN HALIFAX (RIGHT) • TOURISM NS/ACORN ART & PHOTOGRAPHY Whether you're kayaking through the mist at sunset, cycling through historic streets, or relaxing with a cold glass of wine on a ship's deck, Halifax is the perfect place for a fun-filled, yet relaxing city break (www.discoverhalifaxns.com).

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