recounting the heady days when whalers from
France and Spain busily manufactured
much-coveted oil from blubber here
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/redbay).
That seems like only yesterday compared
to Newfoundland's millennium-old sister
site, L'Anse aux Meadows. Leif Eriksson and
his Viking crew arrived on the spot in 1000
AD, then proceeded to build shelters out of
the earth and craft iron from the bog-ore it
yielded. Their settlement was so shrouded in
time that its very existence was dismissed as
a myth until 1960, when Helge Ingstad and
his archaeologist wife, Anne, uncovered
what was left of it. Today it features
atmospheric sod huts, faux Vikings, and
an artefact-filled visitor's centre
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/meadows).
ETCHED BY THE ELEMENTS
While exploring the province's coastal
waters in summer, you might observe
whales like the ones that lured the Basque
fisherman all those centuries ago, or see
supersized icebergs that predate the Vikings.
The land itself, moreover, is positively
primeval. Just witness another World
Heritage site, popular Gros Morne National
Park, where you can float on a freshwater
fjord sculpted by retreating glaciers during
the last ice age and admire geological
anomalies formed hundreds of millions of
years ago when tectonic upheavals thrust the
earth's crust upward (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
grosmorne).
Tellingly, the extraordinary animal fossils
discovered at the province's most recently
inscribed UNESCO site, the 5.7-sq.-km
(2.2-sq.-mi.) Mistaken Point Ecological
Reserve, date back further still. With a
discerning eye and a knowledgeable guide,
you can spot 20 different species embedded
right on the surface of the wave-washed rocks.
Representing the oldest complex multi-
cellular life forms ever found, they are more
than half a billion years old (www.gov.nl.ca/
ecc/natural-areas/wer/r-mpe).
Such ancient attractions—together with
others that are officially protected, privately
operated or provided by Mother Nature—are
tangible reminders of Newfoundland &
Labrador's timeless appeal.
WHAT'S NEW?
Improvements to top Gros Morne trails—
including Western Brook Pond, Green
Gardens, Lookout and Gros Morne
Mountain—create safer, more enjoyable and
sustainable trails. Steep grades are lowered,
drainage is improved allowing for drier
conditions, boardwalks and stairs are
eliminated in most areas and new sections
are opening to offer new views for hikers to
enjoy, making the experience even more
memorable (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
grosmorne).
A pair of new passenger ferries now plies the
Strait of Belle Isle, improving marine connec-
tions between Newfoundland and northern
Labrador. The MV Qajaq W services the Strait
of Belle Isle with a capacity of 300 passen-
gers, 120 passenger vehicles and eight tractor
trailers. The MV Kamutik W services
communities on the north coast of Labrador
and Black Tickle (lmsi.woodwardgroup.ca).
Combining stories, music and food, the Bites
of Basque History program lets visitors experi-
ence life in the past lane at Red Bay National
Historic Site (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
redbay).
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SUNRISE AT CAPE SPEAR LIGHTHOUSE • SHUTTERSTOCK/EYES TRAVELLING
