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marvel at the polished decks and sparkling
brass of the museum's floating exhibit, the
CSS Acadia (maritimemuseum.nova
scotia.ca).
Nearby, the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia
holds over 18,000 works of art including the
life-sized Maud Lewis Painted House, an
original "tiny home" of which every imagin-
able surface was painted by the famous folk
artist (www.artgalleryofnovascotia.ca).
If you haven't been to Halifax lately, you'll
be totally wowed by the new Queen's Marque
district—a grand residential, shopping, and
restaurant development, located near the
ferry terminal. One of the most stunning
aspects of this district is the magnificent
architectural feature, Rise Again: a pair of
wide stone staircases, one leading to the
water, and the other reaching to the sky. For
a sweet treat, stop by Peace by Chocolate, the
flagship shop of the Hadhad family, famous
for their own inspirational immigration
story (www.peacebychocolate.ca).
HALIFAX FROM THE WATER
A maritime city is always best enjoyed from
the water, and Halifax is no exception. Feel
the salt air on your cheeks from the decks of
the graceful Tall Ship Silva or the Missis-
sippi-style Harbour Queen, which offer a
variety of sailing tours, wine, and dinner
cruises, and even a Floating Beer Garden
(www.ambassatours.com). On the quieter
side of things, Halifax Harbour Tours offers a
peaceful, 60-minute guided tour on the Violet
Mac—a 1930s-style hand-restored all-electric
harbour launch (www.halifaxharbour
tours.ca). Adventurous types can glide
through the harbour on a Sunset Kayak Tour
(www.theharbourwatercraft.com), while
thrill-seekers can dose up on adrenaline by
renting a lightning-speed Sea-doo (www.sea
hfx.com).
A new experience from Parks Canada
combines an open ticket aboard the Harbour
Queen with a tour of the fort and tunnels at
Georges Island (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
georges). Pack your own lunch, or pre-order
a Parks Canada Perfect Picnic—we recommend
the lobster roll—which you will collect as
you board the boat.
Despite dozens of specialty tours, "take
the ferry!" is the first piece of travel advice
that Haligonians will extend to any visitor.
The Halifax-Dartmouth Ferry is the oldest
saltwater ferry service in North America, and
part of the daily grind for commuters, but for
the tourist, a 15-minute journey on the
open-air deck provides a delightful
introduction to the harbour, for the mere
price of a bus ticket. Once on the opposite
shore, devote a few hours to Halifax's hip
little sister, Dartmouth, with its eclectic grid
of shops, restaurants, pubs, and parks
(www.downtowndartmouth.ca).
CITADEL HILL AND
THE NORTH END
Physically, Halifax is shaped by a glacial
deposit called a drumlin—an enormous
geological mound that gazes protectively
toward the water. Atop this hill, the star-
shaped Halifax Citadel National Historic Site is
an essential stop (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
halifaxcitadel). The brand new exhibit,
Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped by Conflict is a
must-see for history buffs and military
enthusiasts since it describes how the
Mi'kmaq, Acadian, and British cultures
merged—and collided—to create the Halifax
of today. Other Citadel attractions include
immersive experiences such as musket or
cannon-firing, ghost walks, and even rum-
tasting!
If you're able (and if you dare), you can
literally run or roll down the green grass on
the southwest side of Citadel Hill to the
Halifax Public Gardens, a 16-acre oasis of
Victorian horticulture where, during this
summer, Thursday evening concerts will be
dedicated to the Queen's Platinum Jubilee
(www.halifaxpublicgardens.ca). Nearby,
the Halifax Commons is a popular place for
sunbathing, skateboarding, and roller
skating.
The Hydrostone District is a garden
suburb designed by Thomas Adams, known
best for establishing Letchworth First Garden
City in England, to provide housing after the
devastating 1917 Halifax Explosion (www.hydro
stonemarket.ca). To get there, embark on a
2.5 km (1.5 mi.) city hike along Agricola
Street, enjoying the North End's vibrant
restaurants, cafés, pubs, and boutiques.
Further north still—you may wish to take
a taxi—explore Halifax's African Nova
Scotian heritage at the Africville Museum
and National Historic Site (www.africville
museum.org). Halifax is emerging as one of
the world's most exciting cities for Black
travellers. Consult the travel experts at
Elevate and Explore Black Nova Scotia to find
out why (www.elevateandexploreblackns.
squarespace.com).
At the end of a busy day, there is no better
place to rest your sea legs than one of
Halifax's cosy pubs such as The Old Triangle,
Durty Nelly's or The Split Crow. Order the
fish and chips and a local beer . . . and wait
for the night to begin.
HALIFAX HARBOURWALK • SHUTTERSTOCK/MARC BRUXELLE
